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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.